Kanchipuram Silk Guide

Kanchipuram Silk Buying Guide

“How do I look?” Padma asked me, nonchalantly, staring at her reflection in the large mirror.  We were in a large showroom of Silk Sarees, and a salesgirl carefully folded the saree at the right places, held them in place, and then looked at us noddingly for a reaction.  “Good” I said, “But…”.  My wife cut me off, and declared “I love this saree.  I want to buy this”.  I continued my muted protest – “first of all this is not handloom, and secondly I suspect this has a mix of polyester fiber”.  I got back in a quick retort was “Polyester, silk, handloom – does not matter.  This a beautiful saree, and I love it.”

We were in the temple town of Kanchipuram in the south Indian state of Tamil Nadu, India, famed as much for its tradition of Homemade silk sarees, as for its majestic temples.  They are the remnants of a weaving and dyeing tradition hundreds of years old, patronised by the Cholas, Pallavas and the Chalukyas and whose riches the West came seeking before the industrial age began.  The Nobility prized these sarees for their myriad colours, lustre, and durability.  For the common woman, it was simply a dream to be at par with the Royals.  Now, the Kanchipuram Sarees even has its own Geographical Indications Tag, offering the artisans who weave them legal protection against fakes.

Padma and I were in Kanchipuram for different reasons.  She came to shop for handloom silk sarees that this town is so famous for, and wanted me to come along for company, and help her in negotiation with the traders. I wanted to understand the silk saree, its designs, production process, raw materials and help rationalize the vast differences in the selling price.  In the process, I wanted to understand the tradition of the hand woven sarees, and track its journey from its roots.  For me, buying any product should entail understanding and breaking down its features, cost structure.  We recently purchased a washing machine, and it was relatively easy to compare the factors – top vs front loading, steel vs plastic drum, belt driven vs direct drive motor, spin speeds of 800 rpm vs 1200 rpm, electronic vs mechanical display, warranty period, cost of spare parts, brand value etc. and then value them.  This was easy.  But anytime I go with Padma to purchase a saree, I would be scratching my head in confusion, not understanding why a certain saree cost Rs 36,000 while a similar looking saree in a competing store was a tenth of that price.

I was trying to analyze how Indian women base their silk saree buying decisions.  I am not male chauvinistic, but have to say, it is certainly not based on scientific reasoning.  I get too technical for anything, but Padma looks for something else.  Why do hand crafted sarees cost more than their machine woven counterparts?  What is zari, and why do women fancy it?  Does it really matter if the saree is woven of pure silk, or mixed with poly fiber?  How does thickness and weight of the saree matter?  I did not know the answers when I started asking these questions.  I found no universal truths, but I discovered many facts – about silk, a woman’s identity and the pleasure she derives by draping herself with certain sarees.  I hope to carry the reader with me in uncovering some myths associated with silk sarees.

So this set me on a mission to understand Silk, its supply chain and saree weaving so that they can wear and carry silk saree with grace and  in the process demystify the saree buying process.

Sericulture, the practice of domesticating silk worms for the production of raw silk, has been in existence in China for thousands of  years.  The World was so fascinated by Chinese silk, that silk was traded from one country to another, from one kingdom to another, and eventually reached Europe via a route that is well documented and famous called the Silk Road.  Europe was in the dark ages when Chinese silk was getting popular.  For thousands of years, the Chinese guarded the process of silk making, and threatened its citizens with the death penalty should anyone reveal the secrets to outsiders.

To understand how silk is made, first let us understand the lifecycle of a silk worm.  The silkworm eggs once laid, takes two weeks to hatch into a larva.  The larve feeds continuously on mulberry leaves, and after molting several times, enters the pupa phase. In this phase, the larva (silk worm) produces a fine thread from its salivary glands and wraps itself using this thread.  This fine thread is raw, natural silk.  The larva wraps itself inside a coccoon, that is made using this silk.

To emerge from this phase to an adult Silk Moth, the silkworm has to break out of the coccoon.  Nature has endowed it with a special proteolytic enzyme that it releases, which makes a hole in the silk coccoon.  This enzyme also ruins the silk threads and destroys it.

So the only way for human beings to exploit this natural silk is to kill the silkworm in the pupa phase, and prevent it from damaging the coccoon.  This is done by placing the coccoon in boiling water during which the silkworm dies, and the water makes the coccoon easier to unravel.

So yes, the silk worm is killed in order to produce silk for human consumption. Each coccoon yields anywhere from 300m to 900m of raw silk. Also,  6 – 9 kg of Coccoon is required to yield 1 kg of raw silk yarn.  So depending on the type and weight of the silk saree, anywhere from 5000 to 10000 silkworms are killed in order to produce sufficient raw silk required for one silk saree.  No wonder,  before wearing it for the first time, several Hindus adorn the Silk saree with kumkum and pray. They ask forgiveness for unknowingly snuffing out so many lives in order that he or she could enjoy this beatiful work of art, and also pray for good things to happen while wearing this.

At the time this article is published, prices of Coccoons cultured in India have fallen significantly to Rs 100/kg.  This is a result of the recent Government action lowering import tariffs for coccoons from 30% to 5%, so Chinese cultured coccoons are flooding the Indian market, causing significant grievance to the Indian rearers.  On the contrary, the weavers welcome this move as this enables them to use cheaper silk enabling better prospects for sale of the sarees.  Working backwords, the cost of silk yarn that goes into a (600gm) Saree ranges from Rs 500 to Rs 1500.

The silk yarn is dyed prior to weaving.  Neither the silk yarn is produced in Kanchipuram, nor is it dyed there.  Most of the weavers source the silk yarn from Bangalore.

Since silk is a natural protein generated by a living organism, it behaves similar to other natural proteins, such as hair.  So the best way of testing if it is genuine silk is by what is known as a burn test.  Burning silk smells similar to burning hair, and leaves a grey ash residue that crumbles when crushed.  Polyester or Nylon, when burned, melt, and leave a solid residue with a miniscule amount of ash.

Materials Primer: Zari

Every traditional silk sari has a shiny component that is referred to as Jari or Zari.  In South India, Jari is also known as Pattu.  In ancient times, the Royals found a way of showing off their wealth by mixing Gold and Silver in their clothing. Strips of Gold and Silver were cut into fine wires and incorporated into the clothing,  Even today, Real Jari/Zari/Pattu refers to pure Gold or Silver tinsel threads used in clothing.

The practice of mixing real Jari into sarees continued almost until the 19th century.  Then a Silk saree was made of pure silk mixed with real Jari. This was painstakingly hand crafted over several months, and each saree was unique and a masterpiece. So if you inherited any ancestral silk sarees, chances are they are precious.

The way Zari is made is by flattening a Silver Wire of 50 SWG using rollers, and coiling it around a silk core converting it into silver thread. This thread is electroplated with 24 Carat Gold in a Cyanide solution, and the resultant Zari is Reeled, Flattened and Packed.  Most of the Zari in India is produced in Surat. The flattening of the Silver wire is a unique process, and its technique is a closely guarded secret held by a few families living in Surat. So most Zari producers source it from there.

Zari is usually measured in a unit called Marc.  One Marc is 19,200 meters or approximately 242 grams.   As commodity prices are on the rise, the current price of zari is Rs. 11,500 per Marc  as compared to Rs. 3,150 in 2005.  According to the government standards, one Marc of zari should contain 55 to 57% silver and 0.2 to 0.6% gold and 24% silk, but in order to cut costs the private owners use spurious zari. The artificial zari costs Rs. 250-300 per Marc, substantially reducing the overall cost of a duplicate saree.

A good way of testing if Zari is pure is by a technique called X-Ray Fluoroscence.  The Tamil Nadu Government has set up an analyzer in Kanchipuram that could be availed to test if a silk saree contains pure Zari at a nominal cost.

It is essential to note that it is not possible for anyone to sell a genuine handwoven silk saree with real zari for a cheap price, say Rs 8,000.  Just the cost of the silk,  zari and labour would amount to that price.  It is difficult to generalize as it really depends on the saree design, and how much zari is used in it.

Design:

Weavers in Kanchipuram continue to face the wrath of the capitalist markets. If machines can mass produce what the traditional weavers of yore hand crafted for centuries, at a lower cost, and offer more choices, the weavers have no choice but bow before the market forces.  Weavers children who normally follow the family tradition, are now seeking greener pastures.  The penetration of mass media, internet and mobile telephony has certainly shrunk the World and raised the hopes and aspirations of these craftsmen, and aided them to seek alternative professions.

Traditional motifs on Kanchipuram Saree depicted stories from folklore, royal animals such as elephants and horses, majestic birds such as peacocks and parrots, flowers such as lotus, diamond, temples and other art forms. In other words, sarees worn by the nobility conveyed who they are  – majesty, grandeur and pomp.  Cotton sarees are ornamented with threads and some silk sarees are also woven with thread instead of pure zari.

The industrial revolution changed the rules of production.  Mass production of everything from yarn to fabrics gradually made everything affordable and widely used.  New discoveries in Chemistry led to textile yarns such as Nylon and Polyester after the First World War.  In a well written article on the plight of Kanchipuram weavers (referenced below), three journalists describe the working conditions and wages of weavers. It is heartbreaking to note that weavers do not earn even minimum wages for the effort they put in.

The number of handlooms in India is estimated at 300,000 while the number of power looms at around 30,000.The handlooms are in dire straits as they are affected from two sides – one one side, their children shy away from the tradition of weaving, and are pursuing other vocations for a career.  On the other side, power looms and imports are hitting hard and making it more difficult for handlooms to be commercially viable.

Customers today face all these choices when they go to purchase a saree.  Silk is an age old natural fiber and has been used for textiles for milleniums.  In today’s age, with all the choices of textile fibers, is it still worth to wear Silk Sarees? Well, the answer depends on what you really want to wear.

A silk saree selling for Rs 8000 to Rs 10,000 or less, is unlikely to be a genuine kanchipuram handwoven silk saree.  So how do you ensure you are buying a real one?  First, buy from a reputed store or cooperative.  The Silk Board of India, a Government of India institute designated to promote Silk, has come with the concept of a “Silk Mark” label that it confers on genuine silk sarees.  They will test any saree with such a label in order to promote and protect that label.  Similarly, for testing genuineness of zari, the Tamil Nadu Government’s Zari Test facility in Kanchipuram  can test zari for genuiness for a nominal payment of Rs 40 per test.  Several shops also let you cut out a few filaments and do your own burn test if they are confident it is genuine silk.

If you were misinformed that silk worms are not killed during the production of silk, and you care about this, you should not be using silk.  Please do note that every other material is a culprit of some sort – for example, another natural fiber that is widely used, cotton, is guilty of consuming ten times more water than say tomatoes, and is making matters worse in a country which is already reeling under water scarcity.

How do you distinguish between a handloom vs a powerloom saree?  Handlooms have a different touch and feel compared to powerloom sarees.  Also, most powerlooms tend to mix manmade fibers with silk in their production, so that gives it a different texture.  No powerloom saree uses 100% silk.

Does it matter if it is handloom or powerloom?  To answer this, you should look at it from different perspectives.

From a design perspective, today, it does not matter so much.  Several centuries back, only skilled weavers could produce stunning motifs and designs, while powerlooms spitted out bland versions.  The computer controlled powerlooms of today are capable of reproducing anything that a skilled weaver can handcraft. From an economy perspective, yes generations of weavers are involved in the weaving trade, and their subsistence is threatened by the powerlooms.  So handcrafted sarees give them an avenue to sustain their profession, and express their creativity.

Is it really beneficial to wear silk?  Not really. it was fancied by the World over when the only choice was cotton.  With advances in technology, clothing today can be made using a slew of manmade fibers such as polyester, nylon, viscose and rayon; and natural fibers such as cotton, silk, wool etc.  Cotton has certain properties that keep us comfortable.  Wool keeps our body warm.  Silk is soft and durable.  In contrast, manmade fibers are not liked as much by most people.  The  reason they are so widely used is cost.  With an indefinite supply of raw materials, highly mechanised production, and and endless variety of colors and designs, manmade fibers have found mass appeal and widespread acceptance.  Natural fibers supply is dependant on the crop or the animals that produce them.

Tradition in India dictates the use of silk sares for special occasions, and the tradition keeps the industry going.  The advantages of silk sarees are they are very durable, and they have a resale value while all other sarees have no resale value.  Additionally, handcrafted silk sarees can be unique and makes you stand out.

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ORGANIC CLOTHING

Organic vesture is clothing made up of materials raised in on in or big in compliance with organic agricultural standards.Organic consumer goods could also be composed of cotton, jute, silk, ramie, or wool. Retailers charge a lot of for organic consumer goods as a result of the supply of the clothing’s fibre are free from herbicides, pesticides, or genetically changed seeds.
Authentic Organic Clothes and consumer goods will facilitate the atmosphere in a variety of the way, such as
1) No chemical pesticides are used.

2) Organic cotton produces less greenhouse emissions – Organic farming takes 5 tonnes of greenhouse emission per acre p.a. are taken out of the atmosphere .

3) Organic cotton farming uses up to 1hr where less water is used than standard farming ways .

4) Pesticide or weed killer residues don’t seem to be entered accidentally into the atmosphere.

5) Humans and animals don’t seem to be exposed to chemical pesticides or herbicides.

6) When the material is discarded, pesticides and herbicides don’t seem to be came to the planet in lowland, or enter into usage method.

7) Cotton covers a pair of.5% of the world’s ground however uses 16 PF of the world’s pesticides, over the other single major crop.It will take nearly a 1/3 pound of artificial fertilizers to grow one pound of raw cotton within the U.S.A., and it takes just below one pound of raw cotton to create one jersey

Researchers at Oxford analysed seventy one peer-reviewed studies.The meta-analysis showed that organic farming needs eighty four a lot of land. The researchers complete that each organic farming and traditional farming are worse for the atmosphere than integrated ways that mix the most effective of each and new technology. With higher productivity less space would be required for agriculture and it would be sustained for life habitats and biology.

Conclusion
Many street retailers, like H&M, Nike and Wal-mart market organic consumer goods ranges that contain chemicals from the coloring to bleaching method, that is inconsistent with the thought of organic consumer goods. several firms sell consumer goods made up of bamboo, that is often labelled as “organic”, but this is often a falsehood. Bamboo material is often with chemicals factory-made by “cooking” the bamboo leaves and woody shoots in sturdy chemical solvents like caustic soda and chemical compound, in a very method jointly referred to as chemical reaction alkalization combined with multi-phase bleaching. each caustic soda and chemical compound are connected to serious health issues. This finished material is analogous to fabric and modal, that are a lot of correct terms of describing bamboo materials. Criticism conjointly considerations the high value of the merchandise.

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Chanderi Saree- Gold of India

 

Mughals, Rajputs and Indian dynasties dominated this region from time to time. Kings and Kingdoms, Badshahs and Sultans, battles won and lost, Queens WHO performed Johar, Palaces, Forts, Doors and what not, that gave name and fame to Chanderi, currently stay solely a part of stories and fables; however what survived throughout, from twelfth and thirteenth centuries AD until these days, is that the magic of the weave of Chanderi that is thought to wealthy and middle categories of Asian country as ‘Chanderi Saris’.

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Proven record of tradition of material weaving is on the market from thirteenth century. within the starting, weavers were largely Muslims. In 1350, Koshti weavers from Jhansi migrated to Chanderi and settled down here. throughout Mughal amount textile business of Chanderi reached to its peak. the material length of Chandri was sent to Mughal Badshah Akbar pleated and packed in an exceedingly hollow of a bamboo, once it absolutely was taken out, an entire Elephant may are coated by its length. This was the delicacy and class of weaving of these days. throughout the reign of Jahangir, this art of weaving still accustomed mesmerize individuals. however this can be conjointly true that this excellence of weaving that peaked throughout Mughal amount, conjointly deteriorated throughout this terribly amount. religious belief community has been living in Chanderi for avery long-standing. There square measure several religious belief temples and pilgrimages in Chanderi. it’s aforementioned that in Gajrath Samaharos, control between1436 to 1468, turbans created solely from Chanderi textile were worn.

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Chroniclers of history of Chanderi have mentioned the individuality of Chanderi materials. Tieffenthaler, a Jesuit priest WHO stayed innearby Marwar from 1740 to 1761, mentioned in his description Delaware L’Inde in 1776 that “very fine textile is plain-woven here and exported abroad.” One by-product of this was the expansion of recent weaving centers; Chanderi rose to prominence as a textile producer on the rear of the raw cotton boom. Weavers made terribly fine quality turbans for export to Indian rulers among whom the cocked ‘turban’ was turning into a characteristic mark of high nobility. abundant earlier one finds mention of Chanderi in Maasir-i-Alamgir (1658-1707) whereby it’s explicit that Aurangzeb ordered that “in the Khilat Khana embroider textile ought to be used rather than stuff with gold and silver worked thereon.” the fabric was terribly costly, a combine of frock cost accounting eight hundred to 1 thousand rupees and typically even a lot of.”The fantastic thing about cloth consists in its fineness, softness and transparency, however the ends were typically worked and fringed heavily with gold thread.” A British R.C. Sterndal delineate Chanderi textile as, “Chanderi could be a place wherever skinny Malmal textile is plain-woven.

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the material plain-woven in Chanderi is that the favorable selection of Queens in Asian country. This textile is extremely costly, that have works of herb on its borders. the material of Chanderi may be known by its skinny, soft and clear texture, which may solely be skilled.” until recently, all the turbans of Indian rulers of Asian country were created by Chanderi weavers. These turbans were plain-woven on a 6″ loom. there’s in all probability no weaver of this faculty of weaving is left in Chanderi currently. Royal families of Gwalior, Indore, kohlapur, Baroda and Nagpur used garments plain-woven in Chanderi on festivals like kid birth, marriage, etc. Chanderi made a spread of saris applicable to the tastes of its shoppers, the royalty and nobility of Gwalior, Baroda, Nagpur and on the far side. seldom may a bargainer get past the discerning eye of AN elder in these choose households. The princess of Baroda would right away omitted the 200s count cotton by simply a ‘rub on the cheek’ and will decipher the finer nuances of the motif work and pay consequently. Gwalior state patronised Chanderi weavers from time to time. historically, Chanderi textile was plain-woven mistreatment hand spun cotton thread. Threads were continually brought here from outside. thanks to its proximity to trade routes, offer of threads was ne’er interrupted; however in nineteenth century native weavers started mistreatment mill spun thread. Then Silk thread was most well-liked as a result of the mill spun cotton thread couldn’t manufacture the desired shine that was the specialty of Chanderi textile. This was the time once ‘woven air’, that was the name to explain cliquishness of Chanderi textile had started losing its which means.

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Source- Sonali Webjournal

The Chanderi sari is thought for its sheer quality, fine texture and could be a marvelous add art and style. The hand-woven selection particularly, extracts lots of patience, dedication and workmanship. A weaving art since royal times, this ethnic tradition has still survived the take a look at of your time, because of the individuals of Chanderi. Enhancing the sweetness additional is that the ‘Butti’ or motif, that is AN reticulate , hand-woven, shape, consisting of gold, silver or copper coated threads. The Asharfi Butti, or Gold Coin formed Butti has been a well-liked selection since earlier times, tho’ the pure gold or silver utilized in its creating has given thanks to tested Zari, that is plain-woven from artificial yarn by needles of various sizes. The bigger version of the ‘Butti’ is popularly referred to as ‘Butty’. a significant distinction within the creating strategies is that the ‘Butties’ of hand-woven Chanderi sarees, retain their form and look throughout the lifetime of the material, with no thread taking off from the ‘Butti’ structure. constant can’t be aforementioned for the one plain-woven from artificial yarn, that tends to lose the initial form and look once a while searching for Ethnic wear online.

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Source- Sonali Webjournal

Conclusion Chanderi Sarees with silk because the base cloth have zari brocades with embroidery of various patterns as Zari, Zardosi, Ari, Gota, Chikan, to call a couple of. Butties once solely hand-woven on the material, are replaced by gold-printed ‘Butti’ prints on the silk cloth body.Get to know every minute detail of saree and have the fun of draping a saree with ease. That’s your right. Go for it! Tell us what is your story?

Sari – Indian Tradition and Culture

Sari

The sari, also spelled saree, is a draped dress, generally made from a single piece of fabric  six to nine yards long. Saree is worn by wrapping around a woman’s body in different ways. Saree can be worn on various occasions, depending on the type of fabric used and the style of draping. Almost 75 percent of the Indian women wear Saree in twenty-first century. Sari is one of the beautiful creations of ancient India. Saris were also mentioned in the Vedas, dated back to 3000 b.c.e., and many believe that saris may have been worn even earlier.

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The ancient Indians mainly wore garments that were wrapped and draped, rather than sewn, not because they did not know the art of sewing—early Indian people were experts in fine weaving and embroidery—but because they preferred the flexibility and creativity that draped clothing allowed. Loose, flowing garments were practical in the hot climate of southern Asia,  and the sari, woven of cotton or silk, was both cool and graceful. Though rich and poor alike wore the sari, the wealthy could afford to have fine silk fabric with costly decorations, while the poor might wear rough plain cotton.

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Saree is wraped round the upper body and is winded round the waist. ladies often wear  a petticoat(lower garment) tied round the waist and a decent shirt or breast-wrap that ends just under the bust, providing the base for wrapping the sari. There are many forms of wrapping and draping the dress, and these vary in line with region, socio-economic class, ethnic background, and private vogue. rather than wrapping the material round the chest, the ends of the dress may be merely thrown over one or each shoulders. Typically associate finish is force between the legs and tucked into the rear of the skirt, creating it into loose pants, that are easier for operating. When the abundant material of the sari is wrapped round the waist, it’s usually pleated to form graceful folds and drapes. the quantity of pleats and therefore the direction they fold can vary and is typically dictated by theological virtue. Several fashionable saris are factory-made, saris fabricated from handmade fabric are necessary to several individuals as a political image of Indian pride.Though many Indian people, both those living in India and those who live in other countries, have adopted Western outfits,it is very common for Indian women to wear the sari for important occasions such as weddings.

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Now it has become to get ethnic wear online and are interested in Ethnic wear and designer sarees in bangalore.

Amazing details about most famous Banarasi Saree

Varanasi – The place is believed to possess flourished as a textile centre once it had been a capital of Kasi kingdom, of that Gautama Siddhartha (later referred to as Gautam Buddha) was the aristocrat. In Bhuddha Sanskrit literature once aristocrat Gautama Siddhartha decides to renounce worldly luxuries, he takes wing his silk garments, mentioned to be plain-woven by the weavers of Kasi to urge into simplest of attires. it’s conjointly mentioned in ‘Jataka Puran’ that once Buddha was alive, Kasi kingdom was a vital centre for silk and cotton materials. In fifth and sixth century BC fine plain-woven cotton materials from Kasi became the foremost wanted artefact everywhere the globe. once Buddha earned moksha, chaste cotton material was sourced from Kasi to wrap his sublimate remains.Chanderi Sarees also became famous all over the world.

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Banarasi saree

Source: coloroso sarees

Banaras-and-gujarat-connection

Zari and Brocade textiles square measure a specialty of town. The earliest mention of those majestic materials are often found within the nineteenth century literature. Silk weavers from Gujarat migrated to Kasi in seventeenth century when a famine in 1603. a replacement atmosphere for weavers gave some way to varied innovations and by nineteenth century, town had flourished because the Textile capital of the region. Development of brocade and zari add town saw new heights throughout Mughal amount, particularly within the reign of emperors like Akbar.

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Chanderi Saree

Source: Celebritysaree.com

mugal-wearing-brocade

Having witnessed centuries of hand-crafted textile tradition, town has seen several changes in preferences of colors, patterns, motifs, borders and designs over the years. Between 350 AD to five hundred AD floral patterns, animal and bird depictions gained quality. By thirteenth century ‘Butidar’ styles were to a fault in demand. With the appearance of Mughals & following cultural concoction in sixteenth century, Islamic patterns like florals and ‘Jali’ or ‘Jaal’ came modish, giving a replacement flavour to Indian fashion trends. presently in nineteenth century, Indian styles started showing an in depth likeness to Victorian vogue wall papers and Geometrical patterns (a transfer of the Mughal Lattice work).

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Beautiful Saree

Banarak-silk-work

Today’s fashion trends square measure supported revival of the normal patterns and mix them with trendy color and magnificence sensibilities. complex floral and foliate, Kalga and bel, Jhallar will typically be seen on the borders of contemporary Benarasi Saris. The names of the saris square measure unbroken as per the motifs or patterns plain-woven in them. to call a few- Pure silk (Katan), fabric (Kora), Brocade dress, Jamdani dress, Chiffon Jamdani dress, Jangla sari, Kora embroidery sari, Resham buti sari, fabric border sari, fabric decorated sari, Tanchoi sari, Tissue sari, embroidery saris.

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Banarasi-saree-patterns

Brocade could be a speciality of Benaras material. it’s a characteristic weave within which patterns square measure created by jabbing the Zari threads (pure type of Zari could be a thread drawn out of real gold) between warp at calculated intervals thus on evolve the design/Buti line by line. a sort of loom known as Drawloom or ‘Jalla’ was wont to weave a brocade material.

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Banaras-zari-kaam

With the advancement of technology, these square measure currently plain-woven on Jacquard looms, which permit for pre-planing of the whole style and so going concerning the whole method rather automatically. ‘Tanchoi’ could be a sub-set of Brocade and it needs solely silk yarn as material. there’s another Benarasi innovation known as ‘Jamdani‘, that involves egg laying styles by hands while not victimization any mechanism. Jamdani technique works around cotton solely and remains dead on ancient pit looms.

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Jacquard-looms

‘Karkhanas‘ or weaving centres square measure unfold everywhere the fashionable town and therefore the weavers, referred to as ‘Kaarigars‘ typically work underneath the steering of a well managed Karkhana. The workshop of one loom weaver is named ‘Bunker‘. A master weaver might have 15-20 weavers training/employed underneath him. There square measure 2 ancient weaving sectors in Varanasi- Alaipura and Madanpura. each teams have their own distinctive compositions and weaving techniques, that square measure simply distinguishable.

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Banaras-weaving-loom

Madanpura weavers square measure famous for fine and delicate ancient work on ‘kinkhab’, whereas Alaipura weavers square measure far-famed for experimenting with new techniques and styles. The selvedge of the material created in Madanpura square measure neat compared to those plain-woven in Alaipura, that square measure deliberately unbroken rough and uneven. Besides these weaving sectors, the opposite centres in and around Varanasi district square measure Nati Imli, Lallapura, Chittanpura, Ramnagar, Dulahipur, Pilikothi, Cholhapur and Dharsauna.

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Banarasi-saree

In the town as recent as time, with a weaving tradition that’s equally historic Banarasi saris have unbroken abreast with ever-changing tastes and encourage girls with their ever elegant discreetness in  buying Ethnic wear online. Embedded thus deep within the culture and conscience that an event in her life might ne’er feel complete while not one.

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5 Easy ways to choose a Perfect Kurti in 7 minutes

Indian Ethnic Wear

India is famous for its culture and tradition since ages. Our dressing style is famous all over the world. This is a country of royalties who favorite wealthy silks, long flowy materials, wealthy thread embroideries, gold embroideries, Hand-crafted ornament description on the materials. We have a tendency to check for new trends. We are always evolving incorporation of these into modern-day fashion. There are endless selections once it involves women’s Indian ethnic wear, one to create any girl look stunning, that’s sari.

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Saree our tradition

While sari is that the most well-liked, wearable and handily winner on the ramp of ancient Indian wear, Kurtis must be the foremost sensible, smart and straightforward to wear Indian ethnic wear for girls. Kurti has caught the flowery of womanhood abroad too.

Ethnic wear
Ethnic wear

 

Choose your kind of Kurti 

Kurtis are the most famous kind of ethnic wear of India. These kinds are generally in different types like anarkali kurtis, long kurtis, short kurtis. Good news is that it makes a woman look slimmer. Try with different kinds of hairstyles for your ethnic wear.

If you are a trifle

Opting for materials like soft silk, crepe, soft cotton, linen, Georgette would be a brilliant idea. Polyester or chiffon would droop off from your body creating you look larger. Smooth materials that cling simply a trifle, area unit a decent selection for you.

Ethnic wear
To the beautiful you!

If Chubby

If you are a bit on the bulky side, choose fabrics like soft silk, crepe, soft cotton, linen, georgette. Polyester or chiffon would hang away from your body making you look bigger. Silky fabrics that cling just a bit, are a good choice for you.

ethnic wear
Selecting the right dress Material for Suit is Must
ethnic wear
Select the right material

Too Slim

If you are too slim and would wish to feature some volume to your figure, opt for heavy silks, jute, thick cotton, fabric mix cotton. You will be able to do happy with chiffon and polyester too.

ethnic wear
Kurti for slim girls

Too Skinny

If you are skinny, long, flaring Anarkalis would cause you to look stunning. Since Anarkali styles don’t seem to be apt for casual wear, you’ll be able to prefer A-line cuts with very little other flare.

 

Pear Shaped

If you are pear formed, which means your bottom half is greater than the highest half, have your suit created with a yoke. The yoke ends slightly below the bust, giving it some raise and accentuating it additional and making a visible balance between the higher and lower a part of body.

ethnic wear
Try Full Sleeves with heavy jewellery
ethnic wear
Beautiful
ethnic wear
ethnic wear

Short tall

If you’re short tall, wear straight work super that finish 2-3 inches below your knees to elongate your frame.

Tall

If you are tall, you’ll be able to simply wear short tops with folded Patiala bottoms. It provides a shaped  volume that balances your height.

ethnic wear
Patiyala bottom
ethnic wear
For short girls

Run through different Types of kurtis

For Tunic type kurtis

While Selecting a tunic or a Kurti, allow them to be a trifle loose over the leggings or maybe jeggings. Tight, short tunics over leggings area unit a significant faux-pas.

Printed kurtis

If it involves prints, the principles are similar for any apparel. Smaller Prints for larger frames, daring prints for little frames, vertical stripes for brief ones, horizontal for tall ones.

Colors

While considering the colors, bright, bold, shiny colors for skinny frames and refined, earthy, rustic, dark colors for broad frames. Experiment with colors since they need lots to try to together with your mood and angle. With the correct angle, you’ll be able to carry off any color.

ethnic wear
Full Length kurti

Don’ts

  1. Avoid sleeveless, deep neck or open back styles of the prime, if you are significant. Flesh jutting out of the dress isn’t ingratiatory.
  2. Avoid frills, layers, an excessive amount of description, glitter work round the part of your body that you would not wish to stress.

Conclusion

Whether you are Tall, Short, Dark, Fair the secret mantra is a perfectly stitched and fitted dress. Choose your Ethnic wear wisely and flaunt your beauty.

Chikankari- Type of embroidery done on cloth

Chikankari

Chikankari (process of chikan) was basically invented in lucknow(India).It consisted of style inspired by Persians and was developed more rapidly in the period of Mughals. This incredible style made it possible for Lucknow, a place in India to grow like a tree in an Interntional Market.Many countries have adapted this type of embroidery lately. Chikan began as a type of white-on-white (or whitework) embroidery.  At that time, white threads were used on semi-transparent muslin cloth started as a Tradition. However, with the invention of newer fabric types and changing demands of fashion,  It is seen that with changing fashion chikankari has become one of the famous type of embroidery in among many famous Fashion Designers.Now It is also being done on a variety of fabrics including synthetic ones. Various patterns and colors have emerged  making chikankari pretty Popular in many contries.

chikankari saree
chikankari saree

Chikakari is an integral part of Indian culture since 655 ADC and was strongly rekindled by Moghul queen Noor Jehan in later date. It patronized not only the Moguls but also attained perfection as the most exquisite needlework and hand work which underwent further refinement. It is Admired all over the world over today, this beautiful art has trickled into every section of fashion world.

                     chikankari

Any specific wash / care instructions?

Mostly all the apparels are made of cotton and you can just wash in a regular washing machine and dry. However, we recommend that you hand wash and hang dry. To make it very crisp, please use starch spray and then iron it inside out.
Designer dress / suit – we recommend to get it dry cleaned.

chikankari sari
chikankari sari

On which cloth Chikankari embroidery is possible?

For women:dress material,dress,kurti,mix and match, Dupattas, Leggings, Shalls, Stole. Chikankari work on kurtas for women.
Men: khadi trousers, t-shirts, track pants, sri sri yoga branded track pants, ethnic-special madhurya collection for men, chikankari work on kurtas for men

Kids:ethnic wear, t-shirts, short dhoti, shirts with some message or sloka printed on it. It’s really cute to make your child listen to you and wear an appropriate dress for an occasion.

ethnic kids wear
ethnic kids wear
kid in traditional wear
kid in traditional wear

                   

Traditional or Fancy Saree/ Kurti

Both,traditional and heavy work fancy sarees have chikankari work done on them.

Time needed to complete the Embroidery

Minimun of 2 months is required to make a embroidered saree

Conclusion

Chikankari is the most popular kind of Embroidery. Started in Asia and now used in many countries. It’s done on ethnic wear for many countries too.

Do you have any Chikankari work done on any of your Dress? Tell us if you do.